Jason Momoa, known for his roles in Aquaman and the Apple TV+ series Chief of War, shared a terrifying story about a near-death surfing experience during an appearance on the podcast Smartless. The actor recounted how a day at the Jaws surf break in Maui turned into a fight for survival when his surfboard leash snapped and left him stranded far from shore in dangerous conditions.
Details of the Harrowing Event at a Remote Surf Spot
Momoa explained that he and his friends paddled about 13 miles along the coast before reaching a spot nearly a mile offshore. During this time, Momoa experienced a critical equipment failure.
We paddled 13 miles down the coast, and you’re kind of almost a mile offshore, and then my leash snapped,
Momoa recalled.
It’s so windy on Maui, and so the board just went. I couldn’t even see it anymore.
He described being caught at a location known as S–tf–ks, where strong currents and large waves create hazardous conditions that can pull swimmers and surfers far out and make rescue difficult.
Yeah, yeah, yeah, well, I was trained pretty well, so it was fine. So it was just, I took quite a few on the head. They were pretty big, like 10-foot Hawaiian waves, but I’m literally probably a mile offshore,
Momoa said.
It’s actually, this place is called S–tf–ks, and it’s literally because there’s all this water that pulls out, and it just pulls you out and you just get hit with these waves. So I was stuck in this crazy spot, which is probably the outer reef, and unknown to me, I was really on the outer reef, and they couldn’t see me, and I had my paddle and I was waving it, and they couldn’t see me.
Struggling Against Powerful Waves and Isolation
The waves, which Momoa estimated to be about 10 feet high, were so powerful that they even tore off his shorts during the ordeal.
The waves were so big, it was basically, it took my shorts off they were so f–king big,
he revealed.
Jason Bateman responded humorously,
‘Shorts off at S–tf–ks.’ I’m pretty sure that’s in the Village,
lightening the mood.
In the frightening moments, Momoa thought of his three-month-old daughter while trapped in the water. Exhausted from the relentless impact of the waves, he eventually lost the ability to move his arms and legs.
I literally gave up and I’m screaming inside, and my foot just hits the outer reef, and I don’t know if it was a f–king whale or like just could be one rock, but I just reached down, grabbed it, I jump up, I get hit by another wave,
he said.
I dig my feet into the coral and I’m literally in the middle of the ocean, and I’m just, I could barely put my lips above it just to breathe and get a break, but I had already given up, so it’s like, you’ve already given up and died and have a second chance at it.
Rescue and Recovery After a Dangerous Ordeal
Momoa remained on the outer reef for approximately 10 minutes before a friend arrived on a surfboard to assist him. Though rescued, he faced a difficult journey back to shore, with his feet cut and bleeding as he struggled against the waves. The experience left a lasting impact on the actor.
Life Changes Sparked by the Near-Fatal Experience
Momoa revealed that this frightening incident was the only time he was motivated to quit smoking, a habit he had struggled with for years despite pressures from family and friends.
I used to smoke like two, three packs a day. I had a roller pouch. I couldn’t stop for my kids, I couldn’t stop for my ex, I couldn’t stop smoking,
he admitted.
The moment I came out, I never smoked again. I just died. I just died. I tried and tried, but I couldn’t do it again because I just, I gave up. Like, I gave up my life.
Reflecting on the Incident’s Impact and What It Means Moving Forward
This near-death experience at one of Hawaii’s most notorious surf breaks underscores the unpredictable dangers surfers face, even for those as experienced as Momoa. His story highlights the raw power of nature and the critical importance of preparedness and support among friends during extreme ocean conditions.
For Jason Momoa, surviving this event not only tested his physical limits but also inspired a profound transformation in his lifestyle, revealing how close brushes with mortality can sometimes lead to crucial personal changes.
